Grande Terre (New Caledonia) Roadtrip

For those people following us, you know that we sometimes have a ‘little kiwi’ joining us – this time you will also read/see in photos a ‘big kiwi’, who is Bex’s partner (Simon).

For those who are unaware, New Caledonia is one of the closest pacific islands from New Zealand – it’s just a 2.5 hour flight from Auckland to La Tontouta International Airport. But this collection of tropical islands in the Pacific doesn’t feel anything like any other pacific island, because the European and Melanesian culture has combined to form a unique destination, where you can dine on flawless French cuisine as you sit on an idyllic beach with your toes in the pure white sand. 

The great news is that New Zealand passport holders don’t require a visa to visit New Caledonia for a holiday. So we (Helena, Alan, Bex and Simon) arrived to a lovely 32 degree temperature at 10.00 am and cleared customs, declaring a range of food – no dairy or processed meat is allowed.

After arriving at the International Airport you have a few transportation options as Noumea (the Capital) is 53 kilometres south.  The cheapest is the local bus (unfortunately the times don’t appear to by synced in with flight landings), shuttle bus 3,200 XPF (NZ$45 per person), taxi at 9,000 XPF (NZ$135 for up to 4 people).  We actually shared the taxi with 2 backpackers for the drive to Noumea where we picked up our car.  

We decided to base ourselves on Grande Terre (New Caledonia’s main island) and hire a car through Visa Location – these were by far the cheapest provider (a brand new Renault Clio cost just NZ$490 for 10 days). We picked up our key and returned to pick up Helena and Simon from the airport and made our first stop to a Supermache – wow, the prices were high, and we were pleased to have brought over some staples, vodka/rum, chocolate, etc.

Our first 6 days was spent 150 kilometres north of Noumea, just outside Bourail (at L’aire de Famille) in a ‘2 bedroom Dome’ (costing CPF 67,000 (NZ$1,000)) for 6 nights – it was so cool.  The location was perfect, being only 5 minutes drive to Poe Beach, Plage de La Baie des Tortues (Turtle) Beach and Plage de la Roche Percée Beach.  All of the beaches were pristine and the sea was so warm – the days flew by as we enjoyed sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling.

Leaving Bourail we headed south, and for the next 4 days we rented a house (AirBNB) in Païta, which is located between the International airport and Noumea. Whilst here we took a water taxi to Iset Signal costing XPF4,500 (NZ$68) each. This took us at 08.00 am on a 30 minute ride, on a semi rigid inflatable to the island which is renowned for seeing wildlife – including turtles.  All too soon the boat returned and we left this idyllic spot and returned back to Noumea. To welcome in the New Year, we decided to undertake a hike up Mont Dore which overlooks the city of Noumea.  This involved us leaving at 05.30 am and climbing 800 vertical metres to the view point, in temperatures that started at 28 degrees Celsius, and rose up to 38 degrees Celsius – it was an exhausting, but great way to see in 2024 and observe amazing scenery.  

Our final 2 days was spent in Noumea itself, in local hostel, where we had a 4 bedded dorm all to ourselves (Auberge Jeunesse), which cost us NZ$105 per night.  To round off our time we decided to take a final; ‘water taxi’ trip out to ilot Laraegnere. What an amazing island, as there were only 9 people there, apart from 2 hours when a catamaran full of Australians arrived from a Cruise Ship – I’ll say no more about that time. The sea life and coral surrounding the island was amazing with sooo many reef fish, turtles and sea snakes.

On our final day we woke up at 04.30 am, and was picked up by a ‘Shuttle Bus’ that we booked (cost XPF7,500 (NZ$110)) which dropped us back off at the airport, where we would say auvoir to this ‘French’ Pacific Island.

Our impression of New Caledonia is that it’s a beautiful island outpost of France.  Yes it is expensive, and if visiting eating out is costly, and we heard stories of couples spending more than AUS$350 (even a McDonalds Shake was NZ$12).  However, you can buy staples (rice, pasta, noodles, etc) at a similar price to NZ, but luxuries will cost you (e.g. Whitakers chocolate NZ$22, eggs NZ$12 dozen, chicken/beef NZ$26 kg). We did visit the local market (Marche Municipal de Noumea) which is on daily 05.00-11.00, and managed to find some ‘yellow fin tuna’, which was on special at NZ$35 a kilo – it was delicious on the BBQ that night.

The major negative aspects of the island is the obvious class distinction between the French immigrants and the local Kanak population.  The vast majority of Kanak’s appear to struggle with the high living costs, lack of jobs and rely on subsistence living – this is so obvious when walking around the central area of Noumea. The other observation is the way the Noumeans drive, there appears to be a real ‘need for speed’ on the roads, with cars/utes traveling 30-50% over the 110 kmh speed limit, so take care if driving on the roads.

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