Visiting Surabaya (without tourists) and Bandung

Our next destination was the city of Surabaya on the north/east coast of Java, which has a population of 2.88 million people.

We travelled 270 kms from Banyuwangi to Surabaya by train which took 5 hours and costed IDR 240,000 each (NZ$ 24)). We booked our tickets on the ‘’Access by KAII’ Mobile App. As this was our first train ride we found out that we also needed to exchange the e-Tickets for Boarding Passes and show our Passports to board the train. The journey took us through some amazing countryside with views of rice field, rivers and of course volcano’s (Java has 45 that are classed as active). We have both been totally amazed at the modern rail system, including the comfort, efficiency and professionalism of the KAI train staff.

It was also a great change to stay in Surabaya City (without tourists) and we stayed for 7 days at My Studio Hotel (costing IDR 1,500,000). This meant we could take the opportunity to see a number of local sights which included a full size submarine in the city centre, 5km away from sea.  However, the most memorable time was seeing the ‘day to day’ life of locals cooking on food ‘carts’, washing clothes, cleaning nits out of hair, watching, repairing buildings/paths and visiting the local mosques.  The residential alleyways were only 1.5 metres wide, but full of locals walking, sitting on low stools or the floor, chickens, fighting cockerels, cats and children playing (home made kites).  Our favourite was definitely Nasi Bebek (rice and duck), from one particular food cart, down side a side alley that cost IDR 22,000 (NZ$ 2.30) a plate!!

Alan also decided to use Shopee, an online market place to buy some new Salomon HIking Shoes, which were only IDR 450,000 (NZ$ 46). However, as Foreign Credit Cards weren’t accepted, he used a local Indomart Store (Dairy) to pay cash. This is also the system used by locals who don’t have a Bank Account or Credit Card – it was so easy and simple to use.

Our next stop was Bandung City. The train covered the 600 kms and the tickets cost IDR 450,000 each (NZ$ 45). We stayed at The Attic Guest House for 5 days, which cost IDR 1,250,000. As Breakfast was included we cooked our own eggs, Noodles and bread/toast each morning.

The location also gave us access to some a fabulous areas that meant we could continue eating local food. We were also extremely lucky to witness the city’s soccer team win the Java Cup Final – with local fans going completely mad for 3 days, blocking streets through the sheer number of scooters, waving flags and partying in the street, etc.

Alan experienced some of the most difficult riding conditions on a Scooter he has ever experienced, including using the pavement or dirt path, driving into oncoming traffic (forcing them to stop) and only leaving a 1 or 2 cms gap when waiting for traffic to move. Basically, everyone really ignored any form of road rules, except the person behind you is responsible if they want to pass you and no one ever looks behind. One of the biggest challenges are locals that earn money by stepping out into moving traffic that force traffic to stop to allow cars/vans, etc to reverse, exit or enter a street (subsequently receiving a small tip.). 

Our first ride took us 60 kms south, through lush green Paddy Fields, Strawberry Farms, Tea Plantations and forest to the town of Ciwidey to see the active Volcano of Kawah Putih (also known as White Crater) – that cost IDR 110,000 (NZ$ $21.98) each. As we were leaving Bandung, Alan decided to try and drive down a Toll Road, which he found out was not possible as it could only be used by cars, buses and lorries. This meant he had to travel 1 km back to the access point, going the wrong way down a one way 3 lane access road!!! On reaching the volcanos summit by a local 9 seater bus, we entered the crater to see the amazing turquoise coloured acidic lake, plumes of steam and petrified trees. We also went to a local Tea Plantation, which was well manicured, but it wasn’t the season for harvesting the leaves.

The next day we went 30 kms north to Curug Cimahi Waterfall (cost IDR 20,000 (NZ$ 2.00 each)). To reach the bottom we walked down 500 steps in 32 degrees Celsius and 70% humidity. The views were stunning, as water thundered down, soaking us both in spray. The climb up was tough, requiring a few rest breaks. Just 10 minutes ride on paved roads and unsealed paths we found Curug Bugbrug Waterfall, which again had an impressive 55 metre drop. This was reached by walking through local farming, land and then dropping down more steps to reach the bottom, and paying an entry fee the costed IDR 10,000 (NZ$ 1.00) each.

With our time complete we now head off to our next destination, Jakarta.

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